In Spades

Style... in abundance

NYFW FW20 Day 3 Shows

Well friends, that’s all she wrote.  Another fashion week come and gone.

My last 3 shows of NYFW FW20 were all FABULOUS.  Each had their own distinct vibe, but one theme was evident: an emphasis on core values.

Tibi

Tibi hosted a presentation with a travel theme.  Attendees were treated to exclusive merchandise you would find in an airport – chic Tibi-branded neck pillows, travel socks, sweaters and blankets.  There was a snack bar to raid before taking flight.  Guests sat in first-class chairs and donned virtual reality goggles to view the Tibi experience: Past, Present and Future.

And it was that full-circle reflection of past, present and future that inspired the clothes.  Tibi went back to basics and re-cut their core silhouettes for FW20.  Pleated trousers, smart blazers and crisp trench coats were the name of the game.  I adored the shoes and accessories that complemented these staple pieces.

Boots were chunky and square-toed.  A collab with Clarks Originals was launched.  Their classic Wallabee boot was made in black, white and silver (I’ve got my name on the silver).  Gloves were ruched, waistlines nipped with multi-wrap belts and shearling was features on collars, shoes and separates.

The whole vibe was thrilling.  Tibi has always excelled at being a master of contrasts – not too feminine, not too masculine.  Relaxed yet refined.  Subtle but still extraordinary.  I adored the entire collection.  Truly one of my favorites from FW20.

Tibi FW20 Tibi FW20 Tibi FW20 Tibi FW20

ADEAM

ADEAM is a contemporary line by Japanese designer Hanako Maeda (ADEAM is her last name spelled backward).  I adore it for the structural, voluminous separates with a feminine bent.  Dreamy and ethereal yet strong.

For FW20, Maeda collaborated with Japanese tennis champion Naomi Osaka on a 5-piece capsule collection.  Models sported tennis headbands and biker shorts (with ruffles of course) and then took it up a notch in draped gowns.

As always, what stood out for me were the nuanced details.  Leather dresses that appeared to liquefy because of the expert pleating.  Layers of cascading tulle paired with smart blazers.  Dresses draped in so many layers, the ruffles appeared to have no beginning or end.

The color palette too was right up my alley.  Bordeaux and deep teal mixed in with classic black & white and a tiny bit of plaid thrown in for good measure.  It was wearable, glamorous and dreamy all at the same time.  I’m not even sure how you make those elements work together, but ADEAM delivered.

ADEAM FW20 ADEAM FW20 ADEAM FW20 ADEAM FW20
Jonathan Cohen

Ah, Jonathan Cohen.  A master of textiles.  Plus, he’s a designer after my own heart for his eco-conscious sensibility.

With his Studio project, several of the pieces from his FW20 collection were recycled fabrics from seasons past.  Whether it was deadstock material or scraps of fabric, Cohen brought back prints we’ve seen before.

But’s that’s not to say all was something old.  There was plenty of something new.

I loved his electric rose print.  And let’s talk about the styling.  Cohen is known for his dresses, but so many sharp suits were sent down the runway making me smile from ear to ear.  How gorgeous is that clementine number with knit bag?  And can we talk about those shoulders in the floral pinstripe suit?

Jonathan Cohen FW20 Jonathan Cohen FW20 Jonathan Cohen FW20 Jonathan Cohen FW20

This fashion week was bittersweet since I wasn’t able to attend in person.  But I enjoyed experiencing it from the other side.  I hadn’t done that in over 6 years.  It gave me a chance to really dive into the collections.  In a week where I’m normally running around like a Tasmanian devil in heels, barely able to eat or sleep, this was a nice reprieve.

Plus, I got to catch up on all the BTS footage my peers shared.  All in all, it was a great NYFW.

As I think about what’s next for me and fashion week, I’m setting my sights in a new direction.  Taking one season off from NY made me realize that while I adore it, it’s okay to miss it.

Next on my list is the European fashion weeks.  Can you guess which one is at the top of my list?

ICYMI: check out my NYFW FW20 Day 1 and Day 2 show recaps.

Images via IMAXTREE

NYFW FW20 Day 4 OOTD

Bottega Veneta storm boots Bottega Veneta storm boots Bottega Veneta storm boots

Low Classic trench (similar) // Tiko Paksa vest // Frankie Shop top // Isabel Marant pants
Gucci sunglasses // Banana Republic belt (similar) // Boyy bag // Bottega Veneta boots

Sorry friends, I meant to get this post out on Friday but our whole family has been under the weather.  Ugh, it’s going around.  Stay well!

This would have been my last look for NYFW FW20.  Day 4 is usually always our lightest day (just one show) so I tend to go more casual (and definitely comfortable).  In an effort to stick with my goal of sustainability, I repeated the boots and handbag you saw earlier in the week.

I also brought this trench coat and this vest out of archive.  Both are from indie designers.  The trench coat designer has been gaining traction and is now sold at two of my fave stores (W Concept and Net-a-Porter).  The vest is part of a set and is designed by a Georgian designer I’ve written about many times before – Tiko Paksa.  I adore her clothing and think she is an amazing talent.

There are so many great designers coming out of the Tbilisi area.  Check out MATÉRIEL, another Georgian brand, designed by two designers who also have their own eponymous labels.  So much talent coming out of Georgia!

Back to the rest of this look.  The overall vibe is kind of fashion safari.  I love that it’s comfortable, includes so many textures and layers, and has a literal meaning as well.  If NYFW isn’t a hunt for exotic breeds, I don’t know what is.

Stay tuned for my last NYFW FW20 show recap!

Shop the Post

NYFW FW20 Day 2 Shows

Rebecca Minkoff

Rebecca Minkoff SS20 Rebecca Minkoff SS20 Rebecca Minkoff SS20 Rebecca Minkoff SS20

Rebecca Minkoff has always been an innovative designer.  She was one of the first NYFW designers to move to a see now, buy now model.  This means that the clothes she presents are for the current season and available for immediate purchase.

In a week where we are seeing heavy coats, sweaters, boots and multiple layers, a spring/summer collection is a literal breath of fresh air.

In September, Minkoff’s FW19 collection focused on the career woman.  For SS20, she wanted to continue with other chapters in a woman’s life and dedicated the collection to the notion of rebirth.  Women are mothers, boss babes, friends, and partners.  Their lives are multifaceted.  And they need diverse wardrobes for their many roles.

Yin yang pendants and prints were featured on sweatshirts symbolizing the beautiful balance of a woman’s life.  An east meets west mentality also played out in floral separates, leather jackets and a color palette that ranged from soft yellow to vibrant pink.  Tough meets feminine.

I loved the small details best.  Pearl encrusted sandals, delicate eyelet fabric, subtle tie-dye and oversized scarves in floral print.

Minkoff also debuted her kid’s line, Little Minkoff, which is focused on sustainability.  The pieces are for kids ages 4-12 and are not produced until an order is placed, reducing warehouse space and inventory ending up in landfills.  They are made with biodegradable materials, earth-friendly BLUESIGN-approved reactive inks, and use 50% less water to produce.

Sandy Liang 

Sandy Liang FW20 Sandy Liang FW20 Sandy Liang FW20 Sandy Liang FW20

If you’re not familiar with designer Sandy Liang, now is the time to pay attention.  I was fortunate to attend her first-ever NYFW runway show in September, and her sophomore year was just as fabulous.  For FW20 the clothes were more grown-up with slightly less focus on the kitschy details we’ve come to know and love from Liang (Polly Pocket jewelry, for example).

Long skirts were paired with impeccable sweaters and tall Western inspired boots.  Her signature faux fur jackets were shown in neutrals rather than vibrant hues.  The black and white dresses and separates, which appeared simple at first glance, were anything but.  Ruching, cinching and Peter Pan collars gave them head-turning detail.

If you’re wondering whether whimsical Liang made an appearance, fear not.  Anime eyeball print made it onto puffer coats and silky separates.  And the whole collection was still a nod to Liang’s affinity for the treasures of her youth.  The runway was staged in her old high school and her puppy made a debut on the runway.

I love a nostalgia moment on the runway!

Collina Strada

Collina Strada FW20Collina Strada FW20Collina Strada FW20Collina Strada FW20

My final show of the day was supposed to be Collina Strada.  Collina is one of my favorite shows every season.  Designer Hillary Taymour not only designs comfortable, fashion-forward clothing, but she’s a true artist.  Every runway is an experience, a movement.  In a world where the average runway show is a 13-minute parade of clothes, Collina Strada always delivers a game-changer.

Beyond the performance art element of the shows, here’s why I really love Collina Strada.  They make serious issues (eco-sustainability) FUN.  Whenever a designer can use a platform to convey a strong message in a way that includes me in the journey, I’m sold.  The environment is already something I’m already passionate about.  But when I see this message unfold in beautifully designed garments made of deadstock materials, I’m head over heels.

For FW20, it was a garden party in the land of Collina.  I adore the floral prints – not too precious – and the bold hues of her silky separates.  The Victorian era blouses totally worked juxtaposed with the tie-dye 90s inspired slip dresses.  And oh the accessories.  Since it was a garden party, the models danced down the grass runway with crystal-encrusted tools – hoes, watering cans, (and for everyday use) water bottles.

ICYMI: here is my NYFW FW20 Day 1 show recap.

Rebecca Minkoff photos courtesy of BFA, Ryan Kobane.

Sandy Liang and Collina Strada photos courtesy of IMAXTREE.

NYFW FW20 Day 1 Shows

NYFW FW20 was bittersweet.  Since I had to cancel my trip at the last minute, I didn’t get to see these designs in person.  BUT, I still wanted to share the shows I was supposed to attend with you, because they are oh-so-fabulous.

First up, Ulla Johnson.

Ulla Johnson

I’ve been a huge fan of Ulla Johnson for years and this would have been my first time seeing her show in person.  When I saw it unfold on social media I almost died.  The silhouettes, fabric choices and color palette were everything I dream of.

Straight out of the gate Ulla hit us with bold colors.  Emerald satin led the pack followed by chartreuse, plum and electric violet.  Her signature bohemian prints were a solid throughline in addition to her feminine dresses.  For fall they played out in crochet and delicate handwork, cascading in multi-tiered skirts and plunging necklines.

While she gave us a taste of her signature, she also broke new ground.  Debuting for fall were eyewear and an expanded jewelry line created in partnership with women’s groups in Kenya.  The eyewear leaned 70s, but the jewelry, styling and overall vibe went very 80s.  No wonder I’m such a fan of her fall/winter 20 collection.

The puffed shoulders featured on head-to-toe leather looks were fabulous.  I adored the forest green and juicy plum colors. Exaggerated belting was another strength as seen in her obi belts wrapped multiple times around the models’ waists.

The handbags, footwear and accessories went big.  Gloves and socks were ruched, earrings bold, handbag straps wrapped around limbs like arm candy.  It all worked.  Ulla Johnson showed us that sometimes more is more.

Ulla Johnson FW20Ulla Johnson FW20Ulla Johnson FW20Ulla Johnson FW20Ulla Johnson FW20

Badgley Mischka

From clothes to be worn during the day, we moved to clothes that shine at night.

Badgley Mischka has a flair for the dramatic.  And I love it.

For FW20 the design duo gave us sexy confidence and soft elegance.  The show opened with strong separates in luxe fabrics.  Wool belted overcoats and smart skirts played out in camel and silver, while flirty day dresses gave us a dose of florals.

This bell-sleeved maxi dress would look amazing with combat boots or a stiletto knee-high boot like these.  I love how it can lean tough girl or feminine depending on the styling.

No Badgley Mischka show would be complete without paying homage to their gorgeous eveningwear.  If you follow Eva Chen on Instagram you know she’s always noting runway looks someone should get married in.  If the tulle, feathered champagne gown isn’t the perfect wedding dress, I don’t know what is.  Ethereal, delicate and show-stopping.  Now that’s a big day dress.

While I love a feminine look, you know my cup of tea leans more masculine-inspired.  Their sequins suit killed (please someone wear this on the red carpet!) and the caped gown with long emerald sequin applique was sexy, mysterious and such a moment.

Badgley Mischka FW20 Badgley Mischka FW20 Badgley Mischka FW20 Badgley Mischka FW20

Pamella Roland

Pamella Roland is another designer that knows how to turn heads.  Her cocktail pieces and gowns always evoke sartorial oohs and aahs.

Before we get to the show-stopping gowns, I have to point out the separates.  This feather appliqued overcoat in a tapestry print is bold and vibrant yet still retains Roland’s ladylike signature.  Paired with posh Mary Jane’s and slicked back hair, it’s every boss lady’s dream.

And oh the gowns.  Roland took risks this season and they worked.  Her voluminous 80’s inspired number evoked the Dynasty days.  She chose a vibrant rose print, raised the front to mini length and finished it with a cascading train.  Talk about drama.

While she gave us all the embellishments we expect from her – sequins, hand-beaded applique, feathers – it was her vampy caped gown that stole my heart.  I have no idea how she managed to create the illusion of layered necklaces (those handsewn crystals are so precise!) but the result was STUNNING.

Pamella Roland FW20Pamella Roland FW20Pamella Roland FW20Pamella Roland FW20

ICYMI: check out my NYFW FW20 Day 1 OOTD.

All images via @IMAXTREE

NYFW FW20 Day 2 OOTD

Bermuda shorts suitBermuda shorts suitBermuda shorts suitBermuda shorts suitVintage Celine leather trench (similar here) // Jimmy Choo boots // Boyy handbag
Le Spec sunglasses // Frankie Shop suit

My look for Day 2 of NYFW FW20 was all about a trend I’ve been coveting.

The Bermuda shorts suit isn’t new – it first became popular a couple seasons ago – but I’m finally at a point where I know how to style it to make it work for me.

Enter statement boots.  When this trend debuted everyone was pairing it with Dad sneakers.  I just couldn’t get on board.  While I love the menswear vibe and 80’s inspired look of Bermuda shorts, they need a chic touch.  For me, that’s footwear that turns heads.  Something with a heel.  Something tall.  Something bold.

I scored these boots on sale after coveting them for months.  There are still a few sizes left, but there’s another affordable option here (30% off and also come in black).

Worn with my vintage leather trench (yay for sustainability!) and one of my favorite handbags, the look is super polished but also means business.

During NYFW I talked about how I couldn’t believe so many people were wearing shorts.  While I had a back-up plan for this look (pleated trousers), all of my NYC friends said the weather was actually quite mild.  So this look would have worked perfectly.

ICYMI: see how I styled this vintage leather trench for NYFW FW17.

Shop the Post