My last 3 shows of NYFW FW20 were all FABULOUS. Each had their own distinct vibe, but one theme was evident: an emphasis on core values.
Tibi
Tibi hosted a presentation with a travel theme. Attendees were treated to exclusive merchandise you would find in an airport – chic Tibi-branded neck pillows, travel socks, sweaters and blankets. There was a snack bar to raid before taking flight. Guests sat in first-class chairs and donned virtual reality goggles to view the Tibi experience: Past, Present and Future.
And it was that full-circle reflection of past, present and future that inspired the clothes. Tibi went back to basics and re-cut their core silhouettes for FW20. Pleated trousers, smart blazers and crisp trench coats were the name of the game. I adored the shoes and accessories that complemented these staple pieces.
Boots were chunky and square-toed. A collab with Clarks Originals was launched. Their classic Wallabee boot was made in black, white and silver (I’ve got my name on the silver). Gloves were ruched, waistlines nipped with multi-wrap belts and shearling was features on collars, shoes and separates.
The whole vibe was thrilling. Tibi has always excelled at being a master of contrasts – not too feminine, not too masculine. Relaxed yet refined. Subtle but still extraordinary. I adored the entire collection. Truly one of my favorites from FW20.
ADEAM
ADEAM is a contemporary line by Japanese designer Hanako Maeda (ADEAM is her last name spelled backward). I adore it for the structural, voluminous separates with a feminine bent. Dreamy and ethereal yet strong.
For FW20, Maeda collaborated with Japanese tennis champion Naomi Osaka on a 5-piece capsule collection. Models sported tennis headbands and biker shorts (with ruffles of course) and then took it up a notch in draped gowns.
As always, what stood out for me were the nuanced details. Leather dresses that appeared to liquefy because of the expert pleating. Layers of cascading tulle paired with smart blazers. Dresses draped in so many layers, the ruffles appeared to have no beginning or end.
The color palette too was right up my alley. Bordeaux and deep teal mixed in with classic black & white and a tiny bit of plaid thrown in for good measure. It was wearable, glamorous and dreamy all at the same time. I’m not even sure how you make those elements work together, but ADEAM delivered.
Jonathan Cohen
Ah, Jonathan Cohen. A master of textiles. Plus, he’s a designer after my own heart for his eco-conscious sensibility.
With his Studio project, several of the pieces from his FW20 collection were recycled fabrics from seasons past. Whether it was deadstock material or scraps of fabric, Cohen brought back prints we’ve seen before.
But’s that’s not to say all was something old. There was plenty of something new.
I loved his electric rose print. And let’s talk about the styling. Cohen is known for his dresses, but so many sharp suits were sent down the runway making me smile from ear to ear. How gorgeous is that clementine number with knit bag? And can we talk about those shoulders in the floral pinstripe suit?
This fashion week was bittersweet since I wasn’t able to attend in person. But I enjoyed experiencing it from the other side. I hadn’t done that in over 6 years. It gave me a chance to really dive into the collections. In a week where I’m normally running around like a Tasmanian devil in heels, barely able to eat or sleep, this was a nice reprieve.
Plus, I got to catch up on all the BTS footage my peers shared. All in all, it was a great NYFW.
As I think about what’s next for me and fashion week, I’m setting my sights in a new direction. Taking one season off from NY made me realize that while I adore it, it’s okay to miss it.
Next on my list is the European fashion weeks. Can you guess which one is at the top of my list?
ICYMI: check out my NYFW FW20 Day 1 and Day 2 show recaps.
Images via IMAXTREE