In Spades

Style... in abundance

Would I Still Wear That?

For today’s Fashion Friday, I wanted to share another Would I Still Wear That?  All of these looks are from Oct, Nov and Dec 2014.

This is such a fun series for me.  Not only am I a sucker for nostalgia, but I love a good laugh too. 😉

Speaking of nostalgia, first up is this Alexander Wang x H&M look.

Alexander Wang x H&M

Alexander Wang x H&M Alexander Wang x H&M

What I love about this one is how anticipated this particular collab was.  In 2014 Alexander Wang was at the height of his career.  He was simultaneously designing for his own label AND Balenciaga.  The minute the lookbook hit the internet I meticulously selected what I wanted and made plans to wake up early to queue up for the opening.

Back in those days, if you showed up at a somewhat reasonable hour, you were pretty much guaranteed to get what you wanted. (I distinctly remember the collection when all that changed – Lanvin for H&M).  Sure enough, I was able to score this dress, number 1 on my wish list.

Wearing it with genuine Alexander Wang platforms and a black bra.  Probably the most revealing look you’ll find on In Spades.

Yes, I’d still wear this.

Pink + Platforms + Pajamas

Pink Coat

Oy vey.  The first thing (that hits me like a freight train) are those shoes.  WHY did we wear platform peep toes?  Eesh.  Coupled with the fact that I’m traipsing around the forest in them – I have no idea what’s going on here.

The only platform pumps I can get behind are the YSL Tribtoo.  The weird bull nose made them an ugly shoe I just had to love.  But these?  Clearly an impulse buy.

The silk pants are actually trousers from Barney’s and resemble a chic pajama vibe.  I think I was ahead of my time here.  I no longer have them (RIP Barney’s) but would absolutely still wear them.

The coat is old Banana Republic and I have to say, I’m digging the 60’s vibe.  I still own it but haven’t worn it in ages.

The Duvet Cover 

Cape Sweater Cape Sweater

Haha, another oy vey moment.  I blame Lady Gaga for this sweater.  When I saw it, it immediately made me think of her and something ridiculous she’d wear so I had to have it.  Remarkably it’s from Anthropologie, but it looks like an old duvet cover, carpet or tapestry.

The first photo – when I keep the cape down – isn’t so bad.  But when I place it over my head like a hoodie, it’s a combo of E.T. and Little Red Riding Hood.

I will say it was a fun styling choice at the time.  I was working my wardrobe for the camera.  If you can’t enjoy yourself and take risks on a personal style blog, well, then you’re missing out.

 

5 Fashion Facts That Shaped The History of Fashion

Libertine FW18Last week I shared one of my favorite Fashion Friday’s ever.  It only made it to Instagram (I blame the full moon and Daylight Savings Time), so today I wanted to share it here.

I created a version of Fashion Jeopardy to discuss five key moments in The History of Fashion.

Are you ready?

1. Who won the fashion Battle of Versailles?  The French or the Americans?

If you have no idea what I’m talking about, the fashion Battle of Versailles took place in 1973 as a fundraiser to restore the palace.  Royalty and celebrities alike flocked to the scene to watch 5 French designers and 5 American designers duke it out on the runway.

Actually, it wasn’t meant as a competition.

But the Americans (Bill Blass, Halston, Stephen Burrows, Anne Klein and Oscar de la Renta) served it so hard the news headlines declared them the “winner” of the night.

Why was this event so significant?

Besides beating the crème de la crème of French fashion – Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Givenchy, Ungaro and Pierre Cardin – runway shows prior to this were conducted in complete silence.  No music.  No theatrics.  You were supposed to focus strictly on the clothes.

The Americans brought both music and theatricality to Versailles and it dazzled the audience.  This forever shaped the way runway shows would be presented in the future.

Also of note was that the Americans brought 11 African American models (out of 36 total) with them to walk the runway.  At the time, this was groundbreaking (and awesome).

The level of innovation the Americans brought to the fashion Battle of Versailles was a turning point in how consumers experienced fashion.

2. Which designer is responsible for setting the fashion calendar as we know it?

Answer: Helmut Lang

The current fashion calendar is New York, London, Milan, then Paris.  The old fashion calendar used to have the Americans showing last.

Part of this was due to the fact the Americans copied European designers.  At the time, this was actually accepted by virtue of licensing agreements.  The USA wanted to see what their European counterparts were doing so they could make tweaks to their own collections.

But when Helmut Lang said goodbye to Europe and moved shop to New York, he decided to show first.  This created a trickle-down effect and all the Americans followed suit.  Americans became savvier and were willing to branch out on their own and take more creatives risks.  Helmut Lang instituted Fashion Week as we know it.

Also of note about Helmut Lang is that he is the first designer to stage an online runway show.  He did it in 1998!

It was actually an accident – he wasn’t trying to be innovative.  He canceled his venue 4 weeks before the show and had nowhere to host his runway.  Guests received a CD-ROM of the show in the mail and a link was also posted in their website.

1998 you guys!

3. Which designer had a 17-year career as a Vogue editor before starting her line?

Answer: Vera Wang

What I love about this fact is the message that it’s never too late to pursue something you love.  Vera Wang had a robust career before becoming a designer at the age of 40.  She also had no formal training in the beginning.  Her line started because she was getting married and couldn’t find a dress she liked.  When she decided to just design it herself, a seamstress quoted her $10,000 to make the dress.  She said “forget it” and took matters into her own hands.

So many designers started because they identified a void in the marketplace.  Vera Wang was a key component for shaping the bridal fashion world today.

4. Which designer served as the Creative Director for the most labels simultaneously?

Answer: Karl Lagerfeld

I’ve talked about this before, but the fact that Karl designed for Chanel, Fendi and his own label for decades until his mid-eighties is downright incredible.  He was the ultimate multi-tasker.

Designing for that many brands means he was creating 16+ collections per year.  Most designers can’t even handle 4.

A noteworthy second is Tom Ford.  He designed for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent simultaneously.  When he took the lead at Gucci, they were in such a bad spot, their own Creative Director said “no one would dream of wearing Gucci.” 

By 1995 Ford had taken the company to a $4 billion valuation.  He also inherited the lead role at YSL and faced immense scrutiny.  YSL would send him nasty letters and disparage his work to the press.  It was a very unfortunate situation, both for the young designer and an ailing, unstable genius.

5. Which designer was fired from Christian Dior, sued them for wrongful termination, and won?

Most think the answer is John Galliano, but it was actually Yves Saint Laurent.

The craziest part is the reason he was fired.  He created a leather jacket for their couture collection.

At the time, that was so radical, the executives immediately ousted him.  He subsequently sued them and won.

It’s crazy to me to think that a leather jacket – something I absolutely consider a wardrobe staple – could be deemed termination-worthy.

The fashion world has certainly evolved.

Fashion Friday

Welp, last week got the better of me and I’m just now getting around to posting my Fashion Friday. :S  I did, however, manage to film my Fashion Friday in real time for Instagram.  Check it out here.

On to the topic at hand.  Lots to discuss!

Fashion Month S/S21

I wanted to do a Top 10 list of Fashion Month, but when I sat down and really thought about the most impactful collections of the season, there were only three.

I’ve already talked about Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada’s first joint collection.  Hint: I didn’t love it, but enjoyed watching it and their post-show Q&A.

The best show of S/S21 for me was Jeremy Scott for Moschino.  I loved it because it was super innovative and made me smile during a time when we are doing so little smiling.  He took the miniature theme one step further than Dior by partnering with the Jim Henson Co. to create marionette models and stage a runway show.  There were even high profile marionette audience members – “Anna Wintour,” Edward Enninful” and others were in attendance.

Moschino S/S21 Moschino S/S21

On the flip side, the S/S21 collection that had me scratching my head was Givenchy.  This was newly appointed Creative Director Matthew Williams’ debut collection for the brand.  And it was awful.  I honestly don’t know where to begin.  There was no thoughtful reference to the brand’s DNA.  The best I can gather was that he desperately wanted to emulate Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta.  He tried to create an ugly it-shoe.  But they were just plain ugly.  Nothing “it” about them.  All I kept thinking was that we lost Clare Waight Keller for this?

Givenchy S/S21 Givenchy S/S21

Man Repeller Shuts Down

But perhaps the biggest news of the week is that Man Repeller is shutting down operations.  This is huge for a few reasons.

First, I think it’s a really important message that even the companies we think are successful and doing well financially are actually quite vulnerable in the pandemic.  Now, more than ever, it is IMPERATIVE to support the brands and businesses you align with.  Our mom and pops need us.

Second, I haven’t followed Man Repeller consistently in quite some time, but back in the day when it was just Leandra spouting off in quirky sartorial getups I was a fan.  I remember taking the Man Repeller quiz and feeling so proud that I was on the “full repeller” end of the spectrum.

But more than her voice and sense of style, what Leandra did for fashion blogging is huge.  Along with Bryan Boy, Susie Bubble, Sea of Shoes, Rumi, Chriselle, etc., she opened the door for fashion enthusiasts to take their voice to a larger community.

I wouldn’t have a blog if it weren’t for Leandra, et al.  I would probably still be just a girl who sits in her closet and talks to her shoes.  These pioneers opened the door for the rest of us.  They made it okay, the norm actually, for us to contribute to the larger fashion conversation.  Something we were taught was only reserved for Anna Wintour or someone with Editor in their moniker.

So while I can’t speak to what really went on behind closed door at Man Repeller, I can say one thing.  It’s the end of an era.

Images via IMAXTREE

My Favorite Fashion Books of All Time

Best Fashion BooksWhile fashion month has come to a close, I thought I would try something different for today’s Fashion Friday and share a book review.

I recently finished The Chiffon Trenches and couldn’t have loved it more.  André Leon Talley’s encyclopedic memory for fashion history is paralleled in this personal account of his life and career.  The details of the book are so real, I felt like I had entered a time machine, and to quote Hamilton, was “in the room where it happened.”  The clothes he describes jump off the page – you can feel them – the textures, the prints, the colors.

The most prolific designers of our generation were and are his close personal friends.  He witnessed Karl Lagerfeld’s first runway for Chanel, orchestrated John Galliano’s first ever show, and was one of only three people to maintain strong friendships with both Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent – an almost impossible task given their rivalry.

He recollects his relationship with Anna Wintour – a partnership that encumbered equal parts joy and pain – with grace and dignity.

This book is a beautiful account of Talley’s life.  What it gives the reader is an inside glimpse into an industry that is explosive in its creativity, drama and talent.

I’ve read my fair share of fashion books.  Here are 10 of my favorites.

10 of the Best Fashion Books
  1. The Beautiful Fall – the history of Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld as told through anecdotes and personal stories of those that were close to the designers.  Probably my favorite fashion book of all time.
  2. I’ll Drink to That – the story of Bergdorf Goodman’s longest running personal stylist.
  3. Fashionopolis – the true story of where your clothes come from, and where they go.
  4. Gods & Kings – the rise and fall of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.
  5. In My Shoes – the memoir of Tamara Mellon, Co-Founder of Jimmy Choo.
  6. Tales from the Back Row – as an avid reader of The Cut during Amy Odell’s day, this gives the inside scoop on fashion from a young journalist’s POV.
  7. Seeking Love, Finding Overalls – yep, I know this is a blogger book, but Leandra Medine’s memoir is actually fabulous.
  8. The Woman I Wanted to Be – Diane Von Furstenberg’s memoir is fascinating due to her background, but also how she got her famous wrap dress off the ground.
  9. Grace: A Memoir – Grace Coddington is the most prolific editor in Vogue’s history.  Her story is fascinating.
  10. The Chiffon Trenches – enough said.

Fashion Friday

Prada S/S21 Well, you knew this day was coming.  It’s time to review the most anticipated collection of the year: Prada S/S21.

Why was it the most anticipated?  This collection is the first Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada co-designed for the brand.  In the history of Prada’s legacy, no one outside of the Prada family has designed for the label.  So let’s dive into this collection that had everyone going out of their minds in anticipation.

Was I blown away?  No.

Did I enjoy it?  Very much.

Here’s the thing about highly anticipated shows – they almost never live up to the hype.  While there were elements I loved, I think this collection was average for a couple of reasons.

#1

Prada S/S21Prada S/S21

Prada has always been designed with the essence of the current time in mind.  Designing for who the Prada girl is right NOW.  Unlike a Tom Ford or Balmain who would give you glamour, sex and over the top drama in the midst of an apocalypse (nothing wrong with that), Prada is different.

Miuccia and Raf are both very thoughtful designers; I knew what would be presented would be more of a uniform.  In the Q&A the duo gave after the show (more on that in a moment), they specifically spoke to this point.

“We offer a base.”

It’s up to the Prada girl to interpret it as she pleases.

2#

Prada S/S21Prada S/S21

I’m not a spring/summer girl. My favorite collections in history are almost exclusively fall/winter.  As Raf said in the Q&A, “Coats, coats, coats!  Give me as much coats as possible.”  I’m with him.

I also think they knew this collection would be highly scrutinized and as their first collaborative show, they (smartly) chose to reign it in and begin with a fresh foundation.

The Q&A

The post-show Q&A was fabulous.  Anyone could submit a question (sadly mine was not chosen) and I loved that they focused on what it was like to work together.  (I totally thought they would only focus on the S/S21 collection.)

Miuccia and Raf are both soft spoken and getting a chance to hear what they have to say (neither does many interviews) was great.

They spoke about creating a uniform, what is the “Prada-ness,” and fun, energy changing questions like “what’s the first thing you drink in the morning?”  Raf = coffee.  Miuccia = hot water (mother’s orders).  I adored this insight.

The Clothes

Prada S/S21Prada S/S21

The strengths for me were the accessories.  I will 100% be getting the single razor edge earrings with the Prada logo.  I will also be getting a pair of the super pointy kitten heels in a pop color – I’m thinking either orange or lavender.

I loved the cocoon coats and the signature Miuccia pleated skirts with sumptuous knits (many with geometric holes for edge).

A lot of people didn’t like the massive triangular logos found at the neckline, but I did.  I also thought the color choices were so on point.  The deep pink and yellow were my jam.  The secret backpacks and fanny packs worked into coats and skirts were cool.  It gave me an element of functional kitsch I expect from Prada.

Did you see the runway show?  What about the Q&A?  I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Images via IMAXTREE