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Fashion Friday

Bottega Veneta storm bootsIt was only a matter of time.

I’ve written before how Amazon has been trying to push into the luxury sector for the better part of a decade. They dipped their toe in with Common Threads – a partnership with Vogue that brings awareness to brands impacted by COVID-19.

But a true push into luxury had not been realized until this week.  On Wednesday, Oscar de la Renta became the first luxury label to open an Amazon storefront.

This is, of course, HUGE news.  Experts were torn on whether or not consumers could ever think of the giant retailer as anything more than a place for fast necessities.  Could it be possible that we’d buy toilet paper and $3000 designer handbags in the same transaction?  With Prime delivery to boot?  Now Amazon has their chance to show us.

The Fine Print

It won’t quite be a situation of toilet paper and Gucci handbags in one click.  Luxury Stores, as Amazon is dubbing it, is an invitation only platform.  You must be a Prime member.  Beyond that, the criteria for being accepted is unknown (I’m currently on the waitlist).

When you do make a purchase, it will be a separate transaction from regular Amazon purchases.  Items are guaranteed authentic and can be returned within 30 days.  And yes, there’s free shipping.

The inventory and designers on the platform is constantly evolving.  I believe Amazon said it needed at least 12 luxury labels on board for this to be viable.  Stay tuned for which labels are next.

Why is this Appealing to Luxury Brands?

As with any business relationship, there’s always the question of what’s in it for me?  Amazon’s consumer data points are unparalleled.  They know how, when and what you’re going to shop for… even before you know it.  e-Commerce has long been a sore spot for luxury fashion.  The industry was painfully slow to adopt it, and their rollout of it is still a work in progress.  Not all luxury items are listed, inventory is different in store versus online and shipping can take a ridiculously long time considering the price points.

Amazon is a well-oiled machine that worked out all these kinks over a decade ago.  The are the industry leader.  Why reinvent the wheel or take on the burden yourself when you have an expert in the field trying to court you to use their platform?

What about other multi-brand retailers?

You may be wondering why brands like Oscar de la Renta wouldn’t go to Farfetch or Matches Fashion first (Oscar is already on both platforms).

Again, I think it goes back to consumer data.  Farfetch does operate as a platform, like Amazon’s new venture, allowing brands to dictate their own inventory.  But here’s the key difference.  On a platform like Farfetch, individual boutiques that sell luxury labels are dictating the inventory.  On Amazon’s Luxury Stores, the brand itself is in full control of their inventory, branding and message.

Interestingly, Farfetch is doubling down on their marketing strategy aiming to use brand recognition as the competitive advantage for driving sales.  While they have been mildly successful, their growth can’t compete with Amazon’s.  Further, consumers have a hard time understanding what they’re known for because they carry SO MANY brands.  Have you ever tried to search for something on Farfetch?  The possibilities are endless.  A new website, logo and brand identify are to be launched this year. Will they succeed in becoming a household name in luxury?  Amazon will surely be giving them a run for their money.

 

Fashion Friday

Fashion Friday

LVMH dominated the fashion news this week with two very big announcements.

First…

LVMH Backs Out of the Tiffany Deal

Why is this such a big deal?  Had it gone through, it would have been the largest acquisition in the HISTORY of luxury.  $16 billion is a big freaking deal.  Tiffany’s global recognition would have given LVMH a large feather in its cap – one that could compete with Cartier.

So why did LVMH back out?  Experts have stated (and I whole-heartedly agree) this is nothing more than a case of buyer’s remorse.  In the wake of the pandemic, luxury as a whole is taking a major hit.  Revenues are down 35% across the board.  LVMH is trying to salvage its own losses; the last thing they want is to go on a $16 billion shopping spree.

Of course the lawsuits are flying.  This is sure to drag out for a long time to come with neither company emerging unscathed.

Kim Joes Appointed Creative Director of Fendi

While the Tiffany deal is history making, this appointment is the major news of the week IMO.

First, any designer that replaces a post previously held by Karl Lagerfeld has massive shoes to fill.  Karl is the only designer in history to serve as Creative Director for three labels simultaneously.  And he did so until the age of 85.  That’s over 50 years of multitasking.  Talk about a prolific figure.  Karl was truly other-worldly.

So with Kim Jones joining the Fendi team – while also keeping his post as lead designer for Dior men – one is naturally drawing parallels.

Opinions are mixed on this news, and I’m leaning towards – meh.  Do I think Kim Jones is talented?  Absolutely.  Do I think he’s the right fit for Fendi?  Probably not.  Fendi is big, bold and Italian.  Jones is more contemporary with a street style edge.  As always, I look forward to a designer that makes me look at things like I never have before.  One who will challenge me sartorially.  Here’s looking at you Kim…

 

Fashion Friday

Need Supply Stelen dressThis week’s Fashion Friday is all about closing chapters and new beginnings.

First, the goodbyes.

Need Supply & Totokaelo

Two retailers I adore and have shopped for years, Need Supply and Totokaelo, are closing their doors.

What makes these stories different is their unique beginnings.  Need Supply started out with 300 pairs of vintage Levi’s.  And nothing more.  Originally called Blues, it went on to expand it’s brand line-up and became the indie go-to for affordable and luxury designers alike.

And it’s sister, Totokaelo?  The brainchild of the eternally chic Jill Wenger, it was one of the first to carry Margiela, The Row and all the top Japanese designers under one roof.  (Wenger has gone on to create her own label Roucha, which has a super interesting design philosophy.)  Seattleites and New Yorkers helped to spread the word of its sartorial prowess and put it on the global map.

May they both live on in sartorial memory forever.

Prada x Raf Simons

From final chapters we move to new beginnings.

September 24, 2020 is a fateful day, my friends.  Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada will unveil their first collection as co-creative directors for Prada.

I am pretty much jumping out of my skin about this debut.  I don’t want to hype it too much.  It could end up being very mediocre.  But if it does what I think it’s going to do, I might have to invest my life savings in Prada.

With this debut AND Prada’s newest collaboration with Adidas, the brand is poised to take over the world.  In my mind, it already has.

ALL EYES ON MILAN.

Fashion Friday

NYFW Then and Now

It’s pretty crazy to think another NYFW is around the corner.

This year, of course, will be MUCH different.

I haven’t attended NYFW since September 2019.  For someone who never missed a season in 5 years – even while extremely pregnant or with a newborn – I feel like the tides have finally turned.

NYFW SS19 OOTD The Vampire's Wife

Before the pandemic, my goal for this year was to skip NYFW and attend Copenhagen fashion week.  I adore Scandi style.

Even though I live and die for NY and all it has to offer by way of fashion, it was starting to feel a bit “been there, done that.”  I craved something new.  That newness will have to wait another year.  In the meantime, let’s talk about what the heck is actually going to happen with NYFW in September.

NYFW SS20 OOTD 1 The Vampire's Wife

NYFW S/S 2021

The typical 7-day schedule has been whittled down to 3 days.  But here’s the kicker.  Not ONE runway show is confirmed.  Every major brand has pulled out and those that will show have yet to lock in their plan.  Fashion week is always chaos, but this?  I’ll be watching through tightly closed eyes (with a quick peek).

Conversely, Milan has 28 confirmed runway shows.  Including Fendi and Prada!

Jacquemus coat & No 21 Motel Skirt

The Future of the Fashion Show

This is a long debated question with no clear answer.  Boston Consulting Group dubbed the fashion calendar broken almost 4 years ago.  While we saw designers experiment with see-now-buy-now collections, on the whole, the model didn’t change much.

Will this finally be the turning of the tides?  The minimum cost to host a runway show is $200,000.  The big shows cost upwards of $1 million.  All of that fanfare for clothes that won’t be available for 6 months after you see them on the runway?  No wonder experts think it’s broken.

Ih Nom Uh Nit Stranger Things t-shirt

Moving forward I see a huge emphasis placed on pre-orders.  I see smart brands engaging their customers even more to outline their strategies.  I see conversations, open-dialogue, performance art and intimate gatherings in place of the large-scale show.

Fashion conglomerate brands will always have the money to host what we know as “the norm.”  And I think they’ll stick to that model for the foreseeable future.  Afterall, they can afford to stage a multi-million dollar runway show that will leave people talking for seasons to come.

But for the indie designers, the industry disruptors, I predict a new revolution.

Time will tell.  T-minus 3 weeks.

Fashion Friday

Jeffrey Campbell Lita

Lindsay Lohan image via Zimbio; Jeffrey Campbell 2010 ad campaign

It came to my attention that this week marks the 10 year anniversary of the Jeffrey Campbell Lita.  If you’re not familiar with this ridiculous platform shoe by name, don’t worry.  I wasn’t either until I saw the 10th anniversary article.

But like me, I’m sure you ARE incredibly familiar with this shoe.  It dominated the early 2010’s.  Lindsay Lohan had them.  Jessica Alba had them.  Just about everybody had them.

Why am I devoting a Fashion Friday to these little monsters?  Well, you know I love an ugly shoe.  But really, this shoe represents a lot of firsts for me.

It was the first item I ever sold on Poshmark.  It was the shoe that first introduced me to LF Stores.  But most importantly, it was the first item that I was ever influenced to buy.

Let me explain.

I have been a devout reader of fashion blogs since they came on the scene in the mid 2000’s.  I stalked photos on Tumblr and graduated to blogs when I discovered the now defunct Closet Therapy.  That blog led me to Fashion Toast and Rumi Neely quickly became one of my favorite bloggers.  She was from San Diego.  She had a whimsical, quirky way of writing.  And she didn’t give a f*ck.  She wore what she wanted to.  She wore what spoke to her.  Back then, she actually wore clothes.

Then one day I saw them.  Towering, chunky lace-up platforms.  She owned them in at least three colors and they made her look SO COOL.

I had to have them.  I called every stockist listed on their website to find out how I could get my hands on them.  YES, this was before e-commerce was a thing and finding them online was quite the feat.

LF Stores carried them and there happened to be a store near me.  I immediately drove there.  They didn’t have any in stock, but when I referenced Rumi Neely they told me she shopped there frequently – I almost died.

I was able to locate them online and almost bought them in blueberry colored leather.  After hemming and hawing for a week, I finally decided I should be “practical” and bought them in sand colored suede.

The first time I wore them was to meet my best friend for lunch.  We’re the same height, and when she showed up in flats, our welcome hug was like Andre the giant hugging a small child.

Once home, I almost twisted my ankle getting out of the car.

I probably only wore them three times before selling them on Poshmark years later.

They were weird, ugly and I 100% fell into the hype, but they were FUN.  Being mesmerized the first time I saw them on a blogger, the quest to find them and finally owning them was a sartorial rite of passage.

So cheers to you the Jeffrey Campbell Lita.  Happy 10 years.  May you live on in fashion infamy.