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In Spades

Style... in abundance

October 26, 2020

Fashion Friday

October 26, 2020

Welp, last week got the better of me and I’m just now getting around to posting my Fashion Friday. :S  I did, however, manage to film my Fashion Friday in real time for Instagram.  Check it out here.

On to the topic at hand.  Lots to discuss!

Fashion Month S/S21

I wanted to do a Top 10 list of Fashion Month, but when I sat down and really thought about the most impactful collections of the season, there were only three.

I’ve already talked about Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada’s first joint collection.  Hint: I didn’t love it, but enjoyed watching it and their post-show Q&A.

The best show of S/S21 for me was Jeremy Scott for Moschino.  I loved it because it was super innovative and made me smile during a time when we are doing so little smiling.  He took the miniature theme one step further than Dior by partnering with the Jim Henson Co. to create marionette models and stage a runway show.  There were even high profile marionette audience members – “Anna Wintour,” Edward Enninful” and others were in attendance.

Moschino S/S21 Moschino S/S21

On the flip side, the S/S21 collection that had me scratching my head was Givenchy.  This was newly appointed Creative Director Matthew Williams’ debut collection for the brand.  And it was awful.  I honestly don’t know where to begin.  There was no thoughtful reference to the brand’s DNA.  The best I can gather was that he desperately wanted to emulate Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta.  He tried to create an ugly it-shoe.  But they were just plain ugly.  Nothing “it” about them.  All I kept thinking was that we lost Clare Waight Keller for this?

Givenchy S/S21 Givenchy S/S21

Man Repeller Shuts Down

But perhaps the biggest news of the week is that Man Repeller is shutting down operations.  This is huge for a few reasons.

First, I think it’s a really important message that even the companies we think are successful and doing well financially are actually quite vulnerable in the pandemic.  Now, more than ever, it is IMPERATIVE to support the brands and businesses you align with.  Our mom and pops need us.

Second, I haven’t followed Man Repeller consistently in quite some time, but back in the day when it was just Leandra spouting off in quirky sartorial getups I was a fan.  I remember taking the Man Repeller quiz and feeling so proud that I was on the “full repeller” end of the spectrum.

But more than her voice and sense of style, what Leandra did for fashion blogging is huge.  Along with Bryan Boy, Susie Bubble, Sea of Shoes, Rumi, Chriselle, etc., she opened the door for fashion enthusiasts to take their voice to a larger community.

I wouldn’t have a blog if it weren’t for Leandra, et al.  I would probably still be just a girl who sits in her closet and talks to her shoes.  These pioneers opened the door for the rest of us.  They made it okay, the norm actually, for us to contribute to the larger fashion conversation.  Something we were taught was only reserved for Anna Wintour or someone with Editor in their moniker.

So while I can’t speak to what really went on behind closed door at Man Repeller, I can say one thing.  It’s the end of an era.

Images via IMAXTREE

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Posted by In Spades
Filed Under: Fashion Friday Tagged: Fashion Friday, Fashion Month S/S21, Givenchy, Man Repeller, Moschino

April 17, 2020

Fashion Friday

April 17, 2020

Fashion Friday

Thanks for all your support on last week’s Fashion Friday.  It was my first foray into Tik Tok and while I still have no idea what I’m doing, I’m having a lot of fun.

Today I want to get back to the standard Fashion Friday format because there is a lot to discuss!

First and foremost…

Clare Waight Keller Leaves Givenchy

Clare left Chloe to come to Givenchy.  While I thought Chloe was the PERFECT fit for her, I was excited about this new partnership.  I foresaw a long-standing relationship.  Her expert tailoring seemed perfectly poised to execute the structured, voluminous silhouettes Givenchy is known for.

But after just 3 years, she’s out.

What happened?  This Tweet seems to perfectly sum up Clare’s fall from Givenchy.

“At the risk of reading too much into it, this basically feels like more proof that without a shoe, without a bag, without a stalwart (and ideally perennial) “statement” piece, it doesn’t matter how good of a designer you are, you won’t have a job.”

During her tenure at Givenchy, Clare didn’t give us an “it” bag.  She didn’t give us a new shoe style.  She DID give us an amazing first couture collection.  But was that enough?  If you design excellent clothes but can’t incite a cult following among the 99%, do you have a career?

This begs the question…

Are luxury brands just accessory companies that happen to make clothes?

I’ve thought a lot about consumer perception of luxury brands.  For example, most people know the interlocking “C” logo of Chanel, but do they actually KNOW Chanel?

There’s an old episode of America’s Next Top Model that I’ll never forget.  Paris Hilton guest stars and asks one of the contestants who her favorite designer is.

Contestant: “Chanel”.

Paris: “Do you know who designs Chanel?”

[CRICKETS]

This is forever seared in my brain.  I was incredulous.  If something is your “favorite” how is it possible to know nothing about it?  If the Lakers are your favorite basketball team, don’t you think you should be able to name some of the players?

A lifelong passion for fashion has allowed me time for lots of research.  I’ve read a ton about brand history, window shopped til I’ve dropped, and devoured runway footage.

When someone says a brand name I see pictures in my head.  Adjectives, colors, textures, patterns.  It’s like a mood board.

It didn’t occur to me that others may not see this too.

With COVID-19 halting production, shuttering storefronts and putting the world of fashion at a standstill, I wonder if consumer perception will change.  Will consumers pay more attention to the brands they’re wearing?  Will they shift their focus to quality over quantity?  Less is more?  I hope that sustainability takes a more front and center role.

Brand Response to COVID-19

There are tons of brands doing amazing things right now.  rag & bone has slashed prices sitewide to make their product more accessible.  Read their manifesto here.

One of my fave leather jacket brands is doing a Name Your Price sale.  In their manifesto they are very candid about possibly not surviving the wake of COVID-19.  So 100% of their proceeds are going to their employees.  That’s class.

Here’s the sad reality: if the economy remains shuttered for 2 or more months, 80% of brands will find themselves in financial duress.  They may not survive.

Now is the time to support the brands you love.  Align your support with brands that embody your values.

The power of your dollar has never been more important.

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Posted by In Spades
Filed Under: Fashion Friday Tagged: Brand response to COVID-19, Clare Waight Keller, Fashion Friday, Givenchy, Luxury fashion

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