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My Favorite Fashion Books of All Time

Best Fashion BooksWhile fashion month has come to a close, I thought I would try something different for today’s Fashion Friday and share a book review.

I recently finished The Chiffon Trenches and couldn’t have loved it more.  André Leon Talley’s encyclopedic memory for fashion history is paralleled in this personal account of his life and career.  The details of the book are so real, I felt like I had entered a time machine, and to quote Hamilton, was “in the room where it happened.”  The clothes he describes jump off the page – you can feel them – the textures, the prints, the colors.

The most prolific designers of our generation were and are his close personal friends.  He witnessed Karl Lagerfeld’s first runway for Chanel, orchestrated John Galliano’s first ever show, and was one of only three people to maintain strong friendships with both Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent – an almost impossible task given their rivalry.

He recollects his relationship with Anna Wintour – a partnership that encumbered equal parts joy and pain – with grace and dignity.

This book is a beautiful account of Talley’s life.  What it gives the reader is an inside glimpse into an industry that is explosive in its creativity, drama and talent.

I’ve read my fair share of fashion books.  Here are 10 of my favorites.

10 of the Best Fashion Books
  1. The Beautiful Fall – the history of Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld as told through anecdotes and personal stories of those that were close to the designers.  Probably my favorite fashion book of all time.
  2. I’ll Drink to That – the story of Bergdorf Goodman’s longest running personal stylist.
  3. Fashionopolis – the true story of where your clothes come from, and where they go.
  4. Gods & Kings – the rise and fall of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.
  5. In My Shoes – the memoir of Tamara Mellon, Co-Founder of Jimmy Choo.
  6. Tales from the Back Row – as an avid reader of The Cut during Amy Odell’s day, this gives the inside scoop on fashion from a young journalist’s POV.
  7. Seeking Love, Finding Overalls – yep, I know this is a blogger book, but Leandra Medine’s memoir is actually fabulous.
  8. The Woman I Wanted to Be – Diane Von Furstenberg’s memoir is fascinating due to her background, but also how she got her famous wrap dress off the ground.
  9. Grace: A Memoir – Grace Coddington is the most prolific editor in Vogue’s history.  Her story is fascinating.
  10. The Chiffon Trenches – enough said.

Fashion Friday

Bottega Veneta storm bootsIt was only a matter of time.

I’ve written before how Amazon has been trying to push into the luxury sector for the better part of a decade. They dipped their toe in with Common Threads – a partnership with Vogue that brings awareness to brands impacted by COVID-19.

But a true push into luxury had not been realized until this week.  On Wednesday, Oscar de la Renta became the first luxury label to open an Amazon storefront.

This is, of course, HUGE news.  Experts were torn on whether or not consumers could ever think of the giant retailer as anything more than a place for fast necessities.  Could it be possible that we’d buy toilet paper and $3000 designer handbags in the same transaction?  With Prime delivery to boot?  Now Amazon has their chance to show us.

The Fine Print

It won’t quite be a situation of toilet paper and Gucci handbags in one click.  Luxury Stores, as Amazon is dubbing it, is an invitation only platform.  You must be a Prime member.  Beyond that, the criteria for being accepted is unknown (I’m currently on the waitlist).

When you do make a purchase, it will be a separate transaction from regular Amazon purchases.  Items are guaranteed authentic and can be returned within 30 days.  And yes, there’s free shipping.

The inventory and designers on the platform is constantly evolving.  I believe Amazon said it needed at least 12 luxury labels on board for this to be viable.  Stay tuned for which labels are next.

Why is this Appealing to Luxury Brands?

As with any business relationship, there’s always the question of what’s in it for me?  Amazon’s consumer data points are unparalleled.  They know how, when and what you’re going to shop for… even before you know it.  e-Commerce has long been a sore spot for luxury fashion.  The industry was painfully slow to adopt it, and their rollout of it is still a work in progress.  Not all luxury items are listed, inventory is different in store versus online and shipping can take a ridiculously long time considering the price points.

Amazon is a well-oiled machine that worked out all these kinks over a decade ago.  The are the industry leader.  Why reinvent the wheel or take on the burden yourself when you have an expert in the field trying to court you to use their platform?

What about other multi-brand retailers?

You may be wondering why brands like Oscar de la Renta wouldn’t go to Farfetch or Matches Fashion first (Oscar is already on both platforms).

Again, I think it goes back to consumer data.  Farfetch does operate as a platform, like Amazon’s new venture, allowing brands to dictate their own inventory.  But here’s the key difference.  On a platform like Farfetch, individual boutiques that sell luxury labels are dictating the inventory.  On Amazon’s Luxury Stores, the brand itself is in full control of their inventory, branding and message.

Interestingly, Farfetch is doubling down on their marketing strategy aiming to use brand recognition as the competitive advantage for driving sales.  While they have been mildly successful, their growth can’t compete with Amazon’s.  Further, consumers have a hard time understanding what they’re known for because they carry SO MANY brands.  Have you ever tried to search for something on Farfetch?  The possibilities are endless.  A new website, logo and brand identify are to be launched this year. Will they succeed in becoming a household name in luxury?  Amazon will surely be giving them a run for their money.

 

Fashion Friday

Fashion Friday

LVMH dominated the fashion news this week with two very big announcements.

First…

LVMH Backs Out of the Tiffany Deal

Why is this such a big deal?  Had it gone through, it would have been the largest acquisition in the HISTORY of luxury.  $16 billion is a big freaking deal.  Tiffany’s global recognition would have given LVMH a large feather in its cap – one that could compete with Cartier.

So why did LVMH back out?  Experts have stated (and I whole-heartedly agree) this is nothing more than a case of buyer’s remorse.  In the wake of the pandemic, luxury as a whole is taking a major hit.  Revenues are down 35% across the board.  LVMH is trying to salvage its own losses; the last thing they want is to go on a $16 billion shopping spree.

Of course the lawsuits are flying.  This is sure to drag out for a long time to come with neither company emerging unscathed.

Kim Joes Appointed Creative Director of Fendi

While the Tiffany deal is history making, this appointment is the major news of the week IMO.

First, any designer that replaces a post previously held by Karl Lagerfeld has massive shoes to fill.  Karl is the only designer in history to serve as Creative Director for three labels simultaneously.  And he did so until the age of 85.  That’s over 50 years of multitasking.  Talk about a prolific figure.  Karl was truly other-worldly.

So with Kim Jones joining the Fendi team – while also keeping his post as lead designer for Dior men – one is naturally drawing parallels.

Opinions are mixed on this news, and I’m leaning towards – meh.  Do I think Kim Jones is talented?  Absolutely.  Do I think he’s the right fit for Fendi?  Probably not.  Fendi is big, bold and Italian.  Jones is more contemporary with a street style edge.  As always, I look forward to a designer that makes me look at things like I never have before.  One who will challenge me sartorially.  Here’s looking at you Kim…

 

Fashion Friday

Need Supply Stelen dressThis week’s Fashion Friday is all about closing chapters and new beginnings.

First, the goodbyes.

Need Supply & Totokaelo

Two retailers I adore and have shopped for years, Need Supply and Totokaelo, are closing their doors.

What makes these stories different is their unique beginnings.  Need Supply started out with 300 pairs of vintage Levi’s.  And nothing more.  Originally called Blues, it went on to expand it’s brand line-up and became the indie go-to for affordable and luxury designers alike.

And it’s sister, Totokaelo?  The brainchild of the eternally chic Jill Wenger, it was one of the first to carry Margiela, The Row and all the top Japanese designers under one roof.  (Wenger has gone on to create her own label Roucha, which has a super interesting design philosophy.)  Seattleites and New Yorkers helped to spread the word of its sartorial prowess and put it on the global map.

May they both live on in sartorial memory forever.

Prada x Raf Simons

From final chapters we move to new beginnings.

September 24, 2020 is a fateful day, my friends.  Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada will unveil their first collection as co-creative directors for Prada.

I am pretty much jumping out of my skin about this debut.  I don’t want to hype it too much.  It could end up being very mediocre.  But if it does what I think it’s going to do, I might have to invest my life savings in Prada.

With this debut AND Prada’s newest collaboration with Adidas, the brand is poised to take over the world.  In my mind, it already has.

ALL EYES ON MILAN.

Fashion Friday

NYFW Then and Now

It’s pretty crazy to think another NYFW is around the corner.

This year, of course, will be MUCH different.

I haven’t attended NYFW since September 2019.  For someone who never missed a season in 5 years – even while extremely pregnant or with a newborn – I feel like the tides have finally turned.

NYFW SS19 OOTD The Vampire's Wife

Before the pandemic, my goal for this year was to skip NYFW and attend Copenhagen fashion week.  I adore Scandi style.

Even though I live and die for NY and all it has to offer by way of fashion, it was starting to feel a bit “been there, done that.”  I craved something new.  That newness will have to wait another year.  In the meantime, let’s talk about what the heck is actually going to happen with NYFW in September.

NYFW SS20 OOTD 1 The Vampire's Wife

NYFW S/S 2021

The typical 7-day schedule has been whittled down to 3 days.  But here’s the kicker.  Not ONE runway show is confirmed.  Every major brand has pulled out and those that will show have yet to lock in their plan.  Fashion week is always chaos, but this?  I’ll be watching through tightly closed eyes (with a quick peek).

Conversely, Milan has 28 confirmed runway shows.  Including Fendi and Prada!

Jacquemus coat & No 21 Motel Skirt

The Future of the Fashion Show

This is a long debated question with no clear answer.  Boston Consulting Group dubbed the fashion calendar broken almost 4 years ago.  While we saw designers experiment with see-now-buy-now collections, on the whole, the model didn’t change much.

Will this finally be the turning of the tides?  The minimum cost to host a runway show is $200,000.  The big shows cost upwards of $1 million.  All of that fanfare for clothes that won’t be available for 6 months after you see them on the runway?  No wonder experts think it’s broken.

Ih Nom Uh Nit Stranger Things t-shirt

Moving forward I see a huge emphasis placed on pre-orders.  I see smart brands engaging their customers even more to outline their strategies.  I see conversations, open-dialogue, performance art and intimate gatherings in place of the large-scale show.

Fashion conglomerate brands will always have the money to host what we know as “the norm.”  And I think they’ll stick to that model for the foreseeable future.  Afterall, they can afford to stage a multi-million dollar runway show that will leave people talking for seasons to come.

But for the indie designers, the industry disruptors, I predict a new revolution.

Time will tell.  T-minus 3 weeks.