In Spades

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

One of my favorite shows at NYFW was Son Jung Wan’s S/S16 collection. Inspired by the natural beauty of Korea’s Jeju Island, the collection featured shimmering metallics in ocean blues and purple, soft champagnes and pristine white.

Ireland Baldwin opened the show in a beautifully draped sequins top and silver silk skirt. Next we saw asymmetrical folds and cutouts in tops, skirts and dresses that added some edge to an otherwise feminine collection. The small details were ingenious – I especially loved the large zippers that gave off a rainbow effect depending on which way they caught the light. Raw hemlines on the metallic pieces created a beautiful juxtaposition to the delicate fabric, and the retro styling of silver headbands and side swept ponytails took me back to the best of the 80s.

For Son Jung Wan’s final looks, she showed us a gorgeous combination of silk, leather and custom beadwork. Her strapless beaded jumper glimmered like a thousand crushed shells visible from even the deepest water. It’s keyhole cutout and leather trim were perfection. The woman I saw on the catwalk was feminine, mysterious and elegant and absolutely a woman I aspire to be.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

Lie Sangbong’s S/S16 collection featured light and airy pieces so delicate and fresh they appeared to be floating down the runway. The designer titled this collection Bojagi after the traditional Korean wrapping cloth. As evidenced in his jackets, trench coats and pants, Bojagi features geometric patchwork construction that gives each piece a mosaic effect. The result was purposely metaphorical as well as sartorial. By quilting fabrics together, Mr. Lie was also connecting memories to moments. To further enhance this meaning of connectivity, Mr. Lie collaborated with artist Dong-Shik Roe to create large scale dandelion sculptures for the runway. Constructed of steel stems and cotton seed heads, the dandelions represent a soft delicacy that inspires imagination and rebirth.

The blue and white collection of silks and linen felt especially dreamy. My favorite look was his sleeveless white jumpsuit with plunging neckline. It flowed so elegantly down the runway the entire audience was in a trance for the 30 seconds of its appearance. I also loved his sheer coats with the patchwork overlay in Korean characters. They were whimsical as well as architectural creating a fantastic duality for the wearer. For spring, Lie Sangbong one again mastered the modern lightness he is known for.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

Jay Godfrey’s S/S16 collection was crisp and pristine. The 14-look presentation featured entirely white pieces in silk crepe, lurex tweed and lambskin. Inspired by the late architect David Collins, Godfrey used asymmetry throughout, from hemlines to necklines to cutouts. The result is clean, modern and sexy.

His flouncy skirts and culottes were the perfect silhouette for spring – playful and fresh. Accessorized with wire necklaces, sunglasses and chunky sandals and heeled boots, the whole effect was quintessential Godfrey – uniquely simple and sophisticated. The winning look for me was his sleeveless silk 4-ply maxi coat. Its floor sweeping length and narrow lapel make it the perfect spring investment.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

If the headline images aren’t enough, your interest should be highly piqued for designer Max Gengos. Named as one of the 10 New Labels to Know at NYFW by Elle Magazine, the former Calvin Klein phenom’s debut collection is all about modern luxury. Neo-Tropico brings forth a fresh color palette of citrine, coral and sunlit sand in addition to core neutrals of black and white.

Hailing from Greek heritage by way of Australia, Gengos (pronounced jenn-joss) has an innate ability to transform the female form to mythical proportions. As a Greek lady named after a muse, I can attest: his silhouettes contour the body, his necklines highlight and plunge, and his hemlines appear infinite. The result is modern, sensual and strong – the Gengos woman takes no prisoners, but does so with finesse and elegance.

Gengos is as dedicated to his craft as he is gracious.  At his showing, he humbly explained his design concept while giving me an up-close look at his impeccable fabrics.  A column strapless dress shimmered like the sands of a Grecian beach.  His coral floor length gown featured dramatic slits and micro straps that fell delicately on the shoulder, giving way to supreme sensuality.

Of particular interest is Gengos’ attention to ethical production, a concept he dubs as Responsible Luxury.  All of the designer’s fabrics are sourced from mills in Italy, France and the US that use photovoltaic cells for renewable energy.  His manufacturing process incorporates ‘slow tech’ – high quality production that yields minimal waste, resulting in garments built to last.

To learn more about the designer and view his full S/S16 line, click here.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

Zang Toi’s S/S16 collection was a dreamy blend of elegance and relaxed sophistication.  The Splendor of Santorini opened with a show stopping hand-beaded crystal necklace paired with a cotton blazer and high waisted trousers.  The following ten looks featured a pristine white and platinum color palette in handloomed knits, leather trimmed skirts and swiss eyelet lace tunics before transitioning into a sea of ocean blues and greens.

One of Toi’s strengths I most appreciate is his ability to embellish in just the right places.  Nothing is ever overly constructed or accented.  His blue woven silk strapless gown with green crystal train is the perfect example.  Rather than cascade the crystals down the length of the train, he chose to end them at tea length, drawing the eye even closer to his masterful hand work.  The result is abject sophistication rather than a gown you’d find in a Miss America pageant.  His handloomed knit dress with geometric halter neckline shimmers like a lagoon in the Mediterranean Sea.  Toi closed the collection with a bridal look, a popular choice among many designers for spring, featuring swiss eyelet lace, a train of white chiffon ruffles and a crown of white lilies.