In Spades

There are shows that feel so airy and magical they capture the dreamlike state of your imagination. And then they are shows that make you stand up and proclaim hell yes. Georgine’s S/S16 collection is the latter.

The 26-year-old designer set out to create a collection that was unconventional and she achieved her goal. Nothing in her 36-look show was as it seems. The show opened with denim-like pieces – jackets, pants and cutout dresses – that were crafted from luxurious cashmere and chiffon stitched together to resemble denim. For evening wear, she used neon colored spandex to create floor length reversible dresses. With a nod to 70’s silhouettes, she showed sharp collared dresses with large fur sleeves in bold yellow and pastel pink.

It was her embroidered pieces and fur accessories that took my breath away. Dedicating the show to legendary NYC furrier Argyrios Petkanas, Georgine showed long pom-pom stoles and two-toned fanny packs in a color palette of pastels. Her embroidered shift dress paired with blue spandex fingerless gloves was perfection. Modern and strong, I’m predicting an instant sell-out the moment it hits stores next year. Also of note was her flower print lavender dress and laser cut trench. I adored the combination of soft colors with edgy prints and leather accents. I am very much looking forward to spring.

From the first look of Angel Sanchez’s S/S16 collection I knew. He had me at hello. The designer, known for his architectural silhouettes and draping, wanted to get back to his Latin roots for spring. Tropical Couture featured bold fuchsia, citrus orange, yellow and green in addition to a clean palette of black and white. It was the small details on his gowns and jumpsuits – plexi floral waistbands, hand cut leather flowers, inverted knife pleats – that took a collection of already beautiful silhouettes one step further.

For me, his strongest pieces highlighted the décolletage. His citrine strapless dress with illusion neckline, the sweetheart scalloped jumpsuit and gazar wrap dress with draped bodice were sublimely sensual. The collection gave nod to 1950’s shapes in tea length dresses and high waisted jacquard pants. Even with several factors at play – bold colors, embellishments and grand silhouettes – the craftsmanship was unparalleled and tied together beautifully.

The moment I walked into the room of Lela Rose’s S/S16 runway show, I was hooked. A cascade of flowers suspended from the ceiling transported me to a gorgeous fragrant meadow. As the models descended the runway, it was as if a roving natural landscape appeared before the audience. Beginning with pale grey and silver, Rose showed us delicate fringed dresses and jackets paired with sheer organza accompaniments. The color palette then shifted to posy dot fil coupe separates and shell crocheted knits before closing with radiant orange and citrine gowns.

Ethereal and soft, Rose’s S/S16 collection was like a whimsical dream. Her large print florals were incredibly modern and fresh on flouncy silhouettes. I loved her playful use of neon coral and fluorescent yellow lace extended to high necklines and mixed with nude organza. But the showstoppers of the afternoon were absolutely her hand cut floral embroidered gowns. They floated down the runway like a bouquet of flowers gently jostled by a spring breeze. It was the perfect tie in from beginning to end.

I first learned of Berenik designer Veronika Brusa at New York Fashion Week last season. I was immediately intrigued by the effortless cool girl vibe emanating from her clothes. Androgynous and sportive, her pieces drape the body rather than conform; they truly are adornments.

The designer is a master at combining her love of art and graphic design into her creative concept and for S/S16 she was inspired by the works of friend and artist Steve Voll. Brusa used viscose and cotton to create watercolor prints in vibrant colors, and leather for patchwork designs in more subdued tones of olive, chocolate and black. Shiny cupro was used in track suits, skirt-pants and jackets giving a feeling of comfortable elegance. Perhaps my favorite was the grey stonewashed denim jackets and jumpsuits – so modern and chic.

What I love most about Berenik is the duality of their silhouettes. A wide cut jumpsuit can pass for a dress; flowing pants appear to be skirts. This not only creates functionality for the wearer, but a multifaceted approach to dressing that is anything but mainstream.

The entire collection was head to toe Berenik. Painted bamboo sunglasses, platform leather sandals and large rectangular handbags were created specifically for spring. To see a behind the scenes look into the creation of her shoes, click here.