Nigerian-born designer Ese Azenabor attracted quite the crowd prior to her A/W15 runway show. Based in Dallas, the room was packed with supporters all anticipating her collection, inspired by the reign of Henry VII. Known for her hand beaded pieces and use of opulent fabrics like embroidered jacquard and crocheted lace, her designs are carried in boutiques in Dallas, New York, Amsterdam and Dubai.

What I think Ese Azenabor does best is her use of proportions and silhouette. Each look had either a plunging or extremely high neckline, proving to be equally sexy and elegant. Her suiting and dresses crafted in black beading were totally on point and I loved that she had the moxie to send an Elvis Presley inspired caped number down the runway. Opulent, luxurious and regal indeed.

One of the great joys of fashion week is discovering new gems. From the minute the first look came down the runway, I knew I was going to love Berenik. A Swiss label helmed by designer Veronika Brusa, the brand’s essence is simplicity with a contemporary twist.

What makes Berenik such a hit in my book is that nothing is over-designed. It takes quite a bit of masterful restraint to know when a design has hit its mark. The oversized jackets and jumpsuits are expertly tailored and among my favorites for autumn or spring. The use of carefully curated fabrics – faux fur, crepe de chine, cotton jacquard, silk velour and wool – elevate the sporty silhouettes from casual to elegant.

Another major bonus of the collection is the accessories.  From scarves, gloves, leather goods and shoes I pretty much wanted it all.  I especially love the oxford-boot hybrid with calf hair accents (dying!) and the combo briefcase/backpack as an everyday staple.  I know what I’m going to be wearing come autumn.

To behold a Nina Athanasiou runway show is to gain a pretty intimate glimpse into her creative process. An artist through and through, her A/W15 show started with a screening of a short film she produced, followed by a musical performance from one of her models. Both depicted a journey to uncover something unique, and something unique is what she delivered. Influenced by the marriage of opposite extremes, she used the raw feel of leather with the soft, luxurious feel of feathers on jackets, skirts and boot coverings. She’s an edgy designer, unafraid of taking risks, and while watching her pieces come down the runway, I felt a reference to fetish culture in the styling and accessories. There was also something futuristic in her designs – almost as if Tina Turner was going to emerge from the Thunderdome to greet Mad Max. I love that she tends to use the same models in her print, runway and video imagery, notably famous albino model Shaun Ross. This adds an extra layer of character to the clothes, allowing all who experience them to almost feel a kinship, like getting to know a new friend on a deeper level.

I saw several trends in action – the oversized vest, destroyed denim and both men and women working the single statement earring. There were the photos of people taking photos of the people taking their photos, which reminded me of the early 90’s when I used to do that to my friends with a pink wind-up camera. But there were also moments of quiet reflection, like the artist drawing sketches of looks he saw come down the runway. One thing is for sure, if you ever want to be sucked into a crazy, anything goes fashion vacuum, NYFW street style is the place to be.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia