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In Spades

Style... in abundance

November 6, 2020

5 Fashion Facts That Shaped The History of Fashion

November 6, 2020

Libertine FW18Last week I shared one of my favorite Fashion Friday’s ever.  It only made it to Instagram (I blame the full moon and Daylight Savings Time), so today I wanted to share it here.

I created a version of Fashion Jeopardy to discuss five key moments in The History of Fashion.

Are you ready?

1. Who won the fashion Battle of Versailles?  The French or the Americans?

If you have no idea what I’m talking about, the fashion Battle of Versailles took place in 1973 as a fundraiser to restore the palace.  Royalty and celebrities alike flocked to the scene to watch 5 French designers and 5 American designers duke it out on the runway.

Actually, it wasn’t meant as a competition.

But the Americans (Bill Blass, Halston, Stephen Burrows, Anne Klein and Oscar de la Renta) served it so hard the news headlines declared them the “winner” of the night.

Why was this event so significant?

Besides beating the crème de la crème of French fashion – Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Givenchy, Ungaro and Pierre Cardin – runway shows prior to this were conducted in complete silence.  No music.  No theatrics.  You were supposed to focus strictly on the clothes.

The Americans brought both music and theatricality to Versailles and it dazzled the audience.  This forever shaped the way runway shows would be presented in the future.

Also of note was that the Americans brought 11 African American models (out of 36 total) with them to walk the runway.  At the time, this was groundbreaking (and awesome).

The level of innovation the Americans brought to the fashion Battle of Versailles was a turning point in how consumers experienced fashion.

2. Which designer is responsible for setting the fashion calendar as we know it?

Answer: Helmut Lang

The current fashion calendar is New York, London, Milan, then Paris.  The old fashion calendar used to have the Americans showing last.

Part of this was due to the fact the Americans copied European designers.  At the time, this was actually accepted by virtue of licensing agreements.  The USA wanted to see what their European counterparts were doing so they could make tweaks to their own collections.

But when Helmut Lang said goodbye to Europe and moved shop to New York, he decided to show first.  This created a trickle-down effect and all the Americans followed suit.  Americans became savvier and were willing to branch out on their own and take more creatives risks.  Helmut Lang instituted Fashion Week as we know it.

Also of note about Helmut Lang is that he is the first designer to stage an online runway show.  He did it in 1998!

It was actually an accident – he wasn’t trying to be innovative.  He canceled his venue 4 weeks before the show and had nowhere to host his runway.  Guests received a CD-ROM of the show in the mail and a link was also posted in their website.

1998 you guys!

3. Which designer had a 17-year career as a Vogue editor before starting her line?

Answer: Vera Wang

What I love about this fact is the message that it’s never too late to pursue something you love.  Vera Wang had a robust career before becoming a designer at the age of 40.  She also had no formal training in the beginning.  Her line started because she was getting married and couldn’t find a dress she liked.  When she decided to just design it herself, a seamstress quoted her $10,000 to make the dress.  She said “forget it” and took matters into her own hands.

So many designers started because they identified a void in the marketplace.  Vera Wang was a key component for shaping the bridal fashion world today.

4. Which designer served as the Creative Director for the most labels simultaneously?

Answer: Karl Lagerfeld

I’ve talked about this before, but the fact that Karl designed for Chanel, Fendi and his own label for decades until his mid-eighties is downright incredible.  He was the ultimate multi-tasker.

Designing for that many brands means he was creating 16+ collections per year.  Most designers can’t even handle 4.

A noteworthy second is Tom Ford.  He designed for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent simultaneously.  When he took the lead at Gucci, they were in such a bad spot, their own Creative Director said “no one would dream of wearing Gucci.” 

By 1995 Ford had taken the company to a $4 billion valuation.  He also inherited the lead role at YSL and faced immense scrutiny.  YSL would send him nasty letters and disparage his work to the press.  It was a very unfortunate situation, both for the young designer and an ailing, unstable genius.

5. Which designer was fired from Christian Dior, sued them for wrongful termination, and won?

Most think the answer is John Galliano, but it was actually Yves Saint Laurent.

The craziest part is the reason he was fired.  He created a leather jacket for their couture collection.

At the time, that was so radical, the executives immediately ousted him.  He subsequently sued them and won.

It’s crazy to me to think that a leather jacket – something I absolutely consider a wardrobe staple – could be deemed termination-worthy.

The fashion world has certainly evolved.

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Posted by In Spades
Filed Under: Fashion Friday, The History of Fashion Tagged: 5 Facts that Shaped the Fashion Industry, Fashion Friday, The History of Fashion

June 12, 2020

The History of Fashion: Dapper Dan

June 12, 2020

Dapper Dan

I’m so excited to be back with you for Fashion Friday!

Last month I launched a new series called The History of Fashion.  The aim is to share in-depth information about a brand that you may not know and how that brand or designer has made a significant impact on the history of fashion.

Today’s subject is the legendary Dapper Dan.

Dapper Dan grew up in Harlem, New York.  His family didn’t have much money, but he credits his love for fashion to a time during childhood when they were able to buy him a pair of fancy loafers.  I love hearing about these pivotal moments when a person recognizes the transformative power of fashion.  It’s truly life-changing.

Dapper Dan, whose real name is Daniel Day, started a boutique in Harlem in the 1980s.  With no prior experience making garments, he was determined.  At the time he started his business, American manufacturing was being sent overseas (this is the birth of fast fashion).  Factories shut down overnight and Dapper Dan purchased their equipment at auctions.

Although he didn’t know how to use it, he asked questions; observed.  It was a modern day informational interview, done over and over again.  Dapper Dan calls his learning process “sciencing,” which I love.

His trademark is over-the-top leather and fur ensembles with one key element: luxury logos.  The catch?  He didn’t have permission to use them.

Dapper Dan would buy up all the luxury hardware on handbags, etc. at department stores and repurpose them in his creations.  He also invented a new way to silk screen onto leather, introducing the first instance of “logomania”.

His clothes were so eye-catching they caught the attention of celebrities and most prominently, hip hop artists.

What makes Dapper Dan so significant to the history of fashion is that he’s the designer that merged luxury fashion with hip hop culture.  The two entities didn’t intersect prior to Dapper Dan.  Kind of like a Banksy of the fashion world, he pushed boundaries and people took notice.

It wasn’t until Mike Tyson got into a fight outside of Dapper Dan’s boutique, and made world-wide news, that luxury brands caught on to what he was doing.  Predictably, the cease and desist orders and lawsuits started.  They would eventually be his demise.  Dapper Dan closed his boutique in the 90’s, after 10 years in business.

In 2017, the essence of Dapper Dan re-emerged in Gucci’s resort collection.  Alessandro Michele created a jacket that was almost an exact replica of a balloon-sleeved Louis Vuitton number Dan created for Olympian Diane Dixon in the 80s.  Gucci was promptly called out.

What transpired next is between Gucci and Dapper Dan, but by 2018 Dapper Dan opened a new boutique and debuted a men’s line with Gucci.

Dapper Dan changed the way the world got dressed.  I have his memoir queued up in my Audible for after I finish The Chiffon Trenches.

I wish I had more pictures to share, but they are all right’s managed, so I encourage you to read more about Dapper Dan, check out his website and his Instagram.

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Posted by In Spades
Filed Under: The History of Fashion Tagged: Dapper Dan, Gucci, Harlem, The History of Fashion

May 15, 2020

The History of Fashion: Prada

May 15, 2020

Prada Frankenstein shirt, Bottega Veneta pouchThe past few weeks I’ve taken my weekly Fashion Friday series to Instagram Live.  It was so fun interacting with readers in real time!  This week I’m getting back to my standard format and posting on Instagram Stories in addition to here on the blog.

The Fashion Law recently released an article showing the evolution of luxury designer logos.  It’s a shocking comparison to see “then vs. now”.  Every brand has shifted to a homogenous sans serif font.  The article dubs this shift as “blanding”.  Brand are TRYING to all look the same.  But why?

Part of the reason stems from our shift to online shopping.  When you shop in-store, you clearly know which luxury designer’s store you walk into.  But when you’re shopping online, it’s easy to click from brand to brand on a retailers page.  After a while, Gucci starts to blend with Balenciaga.  Consumers are more likely to add more items to their cart when multiple brands are available in a one-stop-shop compared to physically walking from store to store.  The homogenous aesthetic makes it feel more fluid and is less likely to distract the customer and make them stop shopping.

This got me thinking about one of the reasons why I love fashion.  Every designer has a specific brand DNA and I LOVE that differentiation.  I WANT to see the differences.  How boring would the world be if everything looked the same?

So with that spirit in mind, I’m kicking off a new series: The History of Fashion.

It’s my goal to educate and share what I know about designer brands so that you too can celebrate their uniqueness.

First up, Prada.

NYFW SS19 OOTD 2

Interesting Facts About Prada
  • Founded in 1913, the company began by designing leather bags.
  • Miuccia Prada inherited the company from her grandfather and took the reigns in the late 1980s.
  • Miuccia’s first initiative was a line of nylon handbags with a triangular Prada logo.  It was a huge commercial success and put Prada on the map.
  • The Prada aesthetic is known for being “ugly chic”.  It shies away from elements that are traditionally beautiful and instead finds beauty in unconventionally beautiful things.
  • Before helming Prada, Miuccia performed as a mime.  She also has a Ph.D. in political science.
  • Miuccia’s mother was a Prada, so her last name was technically not Prada.  When her parents died, she had an unmarried aunt adopt her and reclaimed the Prada surname.
  • Prada is one of the only luxury designer brands to only have a member of the Prada family as lead designer.
  • In 2020, Prada announced that Raf Simons would assume the role of Co-Creative Director with Miuccia.
  • Miuccia also owns and designs for Miu Miu (which is Miuccia’s nickname).

 

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Filed Under: Fashion Friday, The History of Fashion Tagged: Blanding, Designer logos then and now, New blog series, Prada, The Fashion Law, The History of Fashion

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