Day 1 of NYFW is always the busiest. It’s as if the fashion gods know they need to start strong, because the cyclone of creativity that’s about to unfold cannot be contained once it gets going.
In other words, release the hounds.
Last February I acquired my first Jacquemus pieces and this year I knew it was time to pad my collection. This stunning black coat has a romantic 1940s vibe. I knew it needed dramatic accessories, so a velvet turban headband and extreme cat eye sunglasses did the trick.
If there’s any way I can describe how much I love Jacquemus, I’ll simply leave you with a quote about his FW17 collection of which this coat is comprised.
“It was about this Parisian girl who wears couture who falls in love with a gypsy in the south of France. She tries to be like a gypsy, but she cannot—she is too couture!” If I can somehow be a part of that world, you know I’m all over it!
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Noon by Noor
As in seasons past, our first show of the day was Noon by Noor. Known for balancing softness and strength, the FW18 collection featured oversized coats and wide shoulders paired with feminine silhouettes like pencil skirts and sleek day dresses. I adored the use of faux fur sleeves and pleated silk peeking out the bottom of tight skirts like petticoats.
Inspired by the starry nights of Bahrain, celestial patterns were found on closing looks, while “to the moon and back” was embroidered in Arabic on peekaboo sleeves and knitwear.
Color was used in unexpected ways for fall. While the palette was grounded in black and navy, atomic yellow and hot pink were potent through-lines. This made for a refreshing take on what is normally a “dark” season.
While I had yet to realize it at the time, this would mark a trend throughout the rest of the week, making FW18 the most fluid of seasons I’ve seen in the past five years.
Get ready world, fashion is serving up season-less collections. And hard.
Collina Strada
It was my first time attending Collina Strada, the New York label helmed by designer Hillary Taymour. Going in, I knew to expect dramatic statements, and sure enough, we were treated to part performance art, part fashion.
Amidst the #TimesUp and #MeToo movement, Taymour wanted to express notions of love. Not romantic or brotherly love, but the love of oneself. Expressing the importance of feeling safe to be who you are, she staged a wedding. There was no groom. The bride married her higher self.
As models of all ages, shapes and sizes descended the runway, we saw reminders of strength. “Within Us” and “Self Value” were written, front and center, on models’ faces.
The collection used classic prints and fabrics – crushed velvet, deadstock leopard print – in modern ways. Organza capes, gloves and overlays were used in several looks with beautiful, dreamy effect. Every well-rounded collection needs juxtaposition, and an influx of edge was present too. Nipple piercings on mini dresses and see-through bodysuits drove home the message of ‘love me for me’.
Bunny Michael closed the ceremony with a spoken word poem before the bride said her vows.
Once again, NYFW served up the unexpected, with its beautifully chaotic, creative expression.
PH5
From the peek of modernity, to retro cool we went.
PH5 takes its name from the pH scale. Measured from 0 to 14, the 5 represents almost middle of the road neutral, with a slight lean towards femininity. Known for their expert knitwear, they served up pastel stripes with scalloped edging, glorious sock boots and hi-lo hem and necklines that were sexy without being overt.
Staged in the Samsung gallery space, the retro cat eye sunglasses, bad ass gloves and tight bang curls were oh-so-fun. I was thrilled to see the exact earring I wore to NYFW in September used in the styling of PH5’s show.
Tadashi Shoji
When it comes to NYFW, it’s a fabulous feeling to know that you have mainstays. Those shows you can count on to deliver the goods, while making you feel right at home.
For me, Tadashi is one of those designers. Give the man a swath of fabric and he can drape a gown with his eyes closed.
While I know what to expect – extreme glamour – I enjoy walking into his shows slightly unhinged: not knowing what he’ll throw at us in terms of color, styling or inspiration.
Like his counterparts, Tadashi was also inspired by the #TimesUp and #MeToo movement and served up a bold collection featuring more black statement pieces than I’ve seen in 5 years of attending his shows. Some were lingerie inspired, with lace bodices and nightgown-esque silhouettes, while others evoked elegant masculinity. His lace tuxedo jumpsuit and sequins power suit took no prisoners.
The FW18 Tadashi woman wears what she wants and dresses for no one else other than the reflection looking back at her in the mirror.
Pamella Roland
In seasons past, I’ve always missed the Pamella Roland show due to scheduling, so I was thrilled to be able to attend this year.
Or so I thought.
NYFW shows start notoriously late (at least 30min), so when I had to get from Tadashi’s 3pm show in Soho to Roland’s 4pm show in Chelsea I thought we’d be fine.
After checking in with PR and racing up the stairs of Pier 59 in my 4 inch stilettos and growing baby bump, I made it to the entrance only to have the curtain close right in front of me. It was 4:14pm.
No (fashion) soup for you.
As a theatre kid, I know how rude it is to enter the performance space once the show has begun, so I completely understand what happened. Was I bummed? Of course. But luckily I got to witness the models take the catwalk from backstage.
Check out my Insta Story Highlight of NYFW for the full scoop.
After running like a little Tasmanian devil in heels all day with nothing to eat, we promptly nabbed an egregious amount of food at one of my fave restaurants, The Dutch. Belly full of fried chicken, I met my girls Cathy and Dawn for dessert to recap the happenings of the day.
Stay tuned for NYFW FW18 Day 2 on the blog tomorrow!
Photos by Matthew Passiglia
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