Fall/winter ‘16 was like a brilliant film you have to watch more than once to truly appreciate. During the show I made note of Tam’s modernized ikat motif featured in both jacquard and sequins. But it wasn’t until my review of our film that I realized just how ingenious this interpretation was. Paired with a teal velvet turtleneck and studded leather jacket in look 14, I was blown away by her imaginative use of color and depth of texture.

Other standouts included her shimmering lame tops and pleated skirts in boysenberry, rosewood and mulberry. I love the way they can transition from day – paired with chunky knits or wrap dresses – to night – shown sheer with a mesh camisole or a paneled suede v-neck dress. Her whimsical parasol print, fringed coats and, perhaps my favorite, striped wrap skirt over pants combo sealed the deal as a strong, innovative collection.

The Tam woman is cultured and worldly. Relaxed silhouettes feature a feminine touch, perfect for travel. Suede culottes, midi skirts and jacquard robe coats all have a flair of the unexpected. It’s a journey of hidden treasures.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

This was exactly as Tadashi Shoji intended.

The designer’s F/W16 collection opened in a palette of nudes, copper, black and gold. Rather than the permanence of ink, thread and sequins were added to the designer’s needle crafting form fitting body suits and illusion necklines. Models eyes were dusted in black and gold, their hair wet and undone. Out of the gate, there was a feeling of gritty glamour.

Tadashi played with eye-catching motifs – tribal, burnout, tattoo-print, mosaic and lace. Despite their variance, the collection was incredibly cohesive, highlighting Shoji’s masterful tailoring of figure flattering garments. Among my favorites was his copper mosaic tulle gown with illusion panel insets. Resembling a modern day Nefertiti, it was dark and incredibly glamorous. Another standout was his deep leaf oversized coat paired with a sequins sheath dress. One of his few looks to deviate from a neutral palette, it scored major points for its beautiful juxtaposition of silhouette and the fact that it was faux fur, something rarely seen on fashion week runways.

Closing the show was a stream of signature Shoji – billowy gowns that appeared to be made of air. They floated down the runway showcasing expert draping and ruching. No one does a shutter pleat like Shoji. To round out this featherweight elegance, each of the final looks featured a delicate adornment of dripping crystal from bicep to wrist, a touch that made the entire crowd swoon.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia

Inspired by traditional Korean attire, the FW16 collection was an homage to Park’s mother. Exuding warmth and strength in her traditional dress, rich tones of eggplant, burgundy and gold were used to represent a feeling of togetherness. With a clever use of fabrics, Park infused mink, cashmere, alpaca and shearling onto collars, hemlines and even accessories. Standouts included a multicolored patchwork muff that doubled as an evening bag. These rich textures beautifully connected with her expanded color palette infusing a fresh perspective of glamour into the Parkchoonmoo woman.

Silhouette is another design element in which Park masterfully excels. A fan of oversized, roomy garments, I adore the way her cozy separates envelope the body. Cocoon coats, capacious pullovers and floor length knits are interchangeable giving the wearer endless options for layering. This season Park expanded upon her signature DNA and included cinched waist silk skirts, sheer turtlenecks and formfitting dresses all of which offered a modern twist on her classics.

Photos by Matthew Passiglia